A lit row of antiquarian shopfronts at night, painted green, blue, red and gold, with gilt lettering, a hanging medal-dealer's sign and a window reading Books, Maps and Prints
One street, one page

Cecil Court and London's Book Streets

An alley of antiquarian booksellers, and what is left nearby.

Photo: Phlizz · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · resized and cropped

Cecil Court is a pedestrian alley about seventy metres long between Charing Cross Road and St Martin's Lane, one minute from Leicester Square station, and it holds two dozen specialist dealers in books, prints, maps, coins, medals, banknotes, porcelain, silver and paintings. Come on a weekday afternoon. Most of the shops open at 10 or 11 and close between 5 and 7, several shut on Sunday, one shuts on Monday, two are by appointment only, and one closes for an hour at lunch.

The other thing to know is that almost nothing here is what it looks like. The court feels seventeenth-century and is late Victorian: the buildings were put up between 1889 and 1894, and not one of them is a listed building. What is old is the trade, the street line and the ownership.

Our guide to the best bookshops in London covers the city's bookselling and names several shops here. This page is about the court itself, what each dealer actually sells, and the streets around it. The theatres and cinemas at the western end are covered by Leicester Square and Theatreland.

Cecil Court in brief

What it is
A covered-in pedestrian court of about two dozen independent dealers, WC2N
Between
Charing Cross Road at the west end, St Martin's Lane at the east
Built
1889 to 1894, shops with mansion flats above
Listed buildings
None. A search of the National Heritage List for England returns no entry inside the court
Owner
Still the Cecil family of Hatfield House, by the estate's own account; the land was bought in 1609
Nearest station
Leicester Square, 131 m and 1 to 2 minutes
Cost
Nothing to walk through or browse. Stock runs from a few pounds to five figures
Worst day
Sunday, when most of the court is shut

Why a seventeenth-century alley looks Victorian

Cecil Court was laid out on open ground between St Martin's Lane and Leicester Square as London spread west. It is generally dated to the 1670s, though it is absent from William Morgan's very detailed map of 1682 and does not appear in the parish rate books until 1695. The name comes from the ground landlord: the land was bought in 1609 by Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, and the estate's own history of the court says it is still owned by his descendants at Hatfield House. Cranbourn Street nearby carries another of the family's titles.

By the 1880s the old buildings had become a slum, and they were cleared. The agreement for realigning the court between Charing Cross Road and St Martin's Lane is dated 8 May 1889 and is held at Westminster City Archives, and the estate's history explains what it did: the line of the court was straightened and shifted several yards south. The old northern shopfronts now lie under the shops on the north side, and the original southern shopfronts lie under the middle of the open court you walk along. The new buildings — shops with mansion flats above — were finished in 1894, under the third Marquess of Salisbury, Prime Minister from 1886 to 1892 and again from 1895 to 1902.

That is why the National Heritage List for England holds no listing inside Cecil Court. Its buildings are a competent, well-proportioned late-Victorian commercial terrace, not a survival. The listed fabric is all around it: the late eighteenth-century bow-fronted shops of Goodwin's Court, two minutes east, are grade II* with their original wooden shopfronts and wall-mounted gas lamps of the mid nineteenth century, and 31 St Martin's Lane, also grade II*, is the oldest house in the lane.

Goodwin's Court is the alley people mean when they say Cecil Court. If you are looking for the narrow lane of dark bow windows and gas lamps that appears in every photograph of "old London", it is Goodwin's Court, off St Martin's Lane, and it has no shops open to the public. Cecil Court is the wider, brighter one with the trade in it. Both are worth five minutes; they are not the same place.

The City of Westminster street sign for Cecil Court WC2, white enamel on a red brick wall above a painted shopfront cornice

Photo: Phlizz · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · resized

What each dealer actually sells

The specialisms barely overlap, so it is possible to find something very particular in ten minutes. The house numbers matter, because several shops are easy to walk past.

What you wantWhere in the courtUsual days
Maps, atlases and sea charts, 15th to 20th centuryBryars & Bryars, no. 7Monday to Saturday
Original maps and prints to 1960, and framingStorey's Ltd, nos. 1 and 3Monday to Sunday
Signed and first editions of new fictionGoldsboro Books, nos. 23 to 27Monday to Saturday
Rare and antiquarian books across every subjectSotheran's, no. 8Monday to Saturday
Children's and illustrated books; Lewis CarrollMarchpane, no. 16Monday to Saturday
Alice in Wonderland editions, prints and objectsAlice Through The Looking Glass, no. 14Monday to Saturday
Music, scores, opera programmes, playbills, librettiTravis & Emery, no. 17Monday to Saturday
Esoteric and philosophical books, tarot, incenseWatkins Books, nos. 19 to 21Every day, including Sunday
Contemporary art, design, fashion and photography booksTenderbooks, no. 6Tuesday to Saturday
World banknotes and paper moneyColin Narbeth & Son, no. 20Monday to Saturday
Orders, decorations and medals; coins; polar and militariaLondon Medal Company, no. 13Monday to Saturday
British military medals, bought as well as soldStephen Wheeler Medals, no. 20Monday to Saturday
Ancient and modern coinsCoin Heritage, no. 20Monday to Saturday
Antique silver and objects of vertu, 17th to 20th centuryDaniel Bexfield Antiques, no. 5Every day, including Sunday
Meissen, Sèvres, KPM and other European porcelainSerhat Ahmet, no. 10Monday to Saturday
Art Deco and Modernist jewellery and collectablesArt Deco Gallery London, no. 11Every day, telephone first
Paintings and works on paper, 16th to 20th centuryDarnley Fine Art, nos. 2 to 4Monday to Saturday
Contemporary British and 20th-century continental paintingsPanter & Hall, nos. 22 to 24Monday to Saturday
Prints and drawings, 16th century to now, with exhibitionsEmanuel von Baeyer, no. 18Wednesday to Saturday
Vintage tailoring, suiting and ties, Edwardian to 2010sLiberty Joy Archive, no. 11Wednesday to Monday, not Tuesday
Fine art and antiques at auction, and previewsSworders, no. 15Monday to Friday
Antiques and curiosities, generalMark Sullivan, no. 9Every day, including Sunday

Two shops in the court trade by appointment only and will not be open when you walk past: November Books at no. 7, in fashion, design and subcultural material, and Emanuel von Baeyer on Mondays, Tuesdays and Sundays. Days and hours here are set shop by shop and do change, so if you are travelling for one dealer, telephone.

The hours that decide the visit

Cecil Court has no single opening time, and the practical rules are these. Nothing much is open before 10am, and the majority start at 11. Sunday removes most of the court: four businesses trade on a Sunday, and the rest are shut. Monday removes Tenderbooks and closes Emanuel von Baeyer's shopfront; Tuesday removes Liberty Joy Archive. Panter & Hall closes for an hour between 2pm and 3pm. Sworders keeps office hours, Monday to Friday, and stays open until 7pm on Thursdays.

The best hour is between about 2pm and 4pm on a Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday. The dealers are experts, most of them own the shop, and a quiet afternoon is when you can ask a real question about a first edition, a plate or a condition report. At 5.30pm on a Friday you are competing with theatre crowds walking through to St Martin's Lane.

How to buy from an antiquarian dealer

Nothing here has a barcode and very little has a fixed retail price, which puts visitors off unnecessarily. Four things make it straightforward.

What was here before the booksellers

Three earlier lives are documented, and one of them is genuinely surprising.

Mozart lodged here in 1764. The Survey of London recorded it in 1940: "In Cecil Court, on the west side of St. Martin's Lane, the child Mozart lodged in 1764 at the house of 'Mr. Couzin hare cutter.'" He was eight. The family took three rooms from the barber John Couzin at twelve shillings a week between 24 April and 6 August, and the address was the first they had in London. The court's renumbering after the 1889 realignment means the old number 21 is now roughly number 9, with the threshold itself under the open street.

It was the centre of the British film trade. Among the first tenants of the new 1894 buildings were film distributors, equipment suppliers and trade journals, and the court was nicknamed Flicker Alley. Cecil Hepworth released the first film version of Alice in Wonderland in 1903 from an office at number 17; the Pioneer Film Company held number 27 from about 1912 to 1915. That there is now an Alice specialist at number 14 and a Lewis Carroll specialist at number 16 is a coincidence, but a neat one.

Two famous bookselling names started here. Watkins, which calls itself the oldest esoteric bookshop in London, arrived at number 21 in 1901 and is still in the court. In 1904 the brothers William and Gilbert Foyle opened their first West End shop at number 16, at a rent of £60 a year, before the business moved to Charing Cross Road and became the chain that still trades there. Graham Greene, who bought books here, is quoted by the estate as thanking God that Cecil Court remains Cecil Court.

The book streets around it, and what is actually left

Charing Cross Road at the west end was London's bookselling street for most of the twentieth century, and most of the second-hand shops have gone. A general second-hand dealer survives at number 56, the big modern Foyles flagship is at 107, and the address made famous by Helene Hanff's 84, Charing Cross Road no longer holds a bookshop at all. Do not go looking for a street of dealers: Cecil Court is where the density is now.

St Martin's Lane at the east end is theatres, not books, with the Coliseum, the Duke of York's and the Garrick all within three minutes; our guide to West End theatre covers what is on. Five minutes north-east, Seven Dials holds the map and travel specialist and the rest of the shopping, in shopping in Covent Garden and Seven Dials and Seven Dials and Neal's Yard.

Two free indoor stops are within four minutes if the weather turns: the National Portrait Gallery at the southern end of Charing Cross Road, and the digital screens described in Outernet and free digital art at the northern end. Soho begins across the road.

Getting there

Leicester Square station is 131 metres away on Transport for London's measure, one to two minutes on foot. Charing Cross station is 465 metres and about 8 minutes, the better arrival by main-line train. The court is level, paved and pedestrian, but the shops are small, mostly with a step at the door and narrow aisles, so a wheelchair user should expect to browse some of them from the doorway.

There is nowhere in the court to sit down and nothing to eat in it; the nearest places are on St Martin's Lane and Charing Cross Road, and our page on eating near Charing Cross handles that corner. Allow forty minutes for browsing, two hours if you came for something specific and found the dealer who knows about it.

Frequently asked questions

Is Cecil Court open on Sunday?

The court itself is a public thoroughfare and never closes, but most of the shops do. Four of the two dozen businesses trade on a Sunday, among them the esoteric bookshop at 19 to 21, the print and map dealer at 1 and 3, the silver dealer at 5 and the general antiques shop at 9. Everything else is a weekday and Saturday proposition.

How old is Cecil Court?

The court was laid out in the late seventeenth century, first appearing in the parish rate books in 1695, but every building you can see dates from a rebuilding of 1889 to 1894. The street line was also moved several yards south at that point, so even the ground plan is Victorian. Nothing inside the court is a listed building.

Why is Cecil Court called Flicker Alley?

Because the new 1894 buildings filled up with the early British film business: distributors, equipment suppliers and trade journals. Cecil Hepworth released the first film of Alice in Wonderland from number 17 in 1903, and the Pioneer Film Company traded from number 27 shortly before the First World War. The nickname belongs to that period, not to the present bookshops.

Did Mozart really live in Cecil Court?

He lodged there for about three months in 1764, aged eight, with his family, in rooms rented from a barber. The Survey of London recorded the address in 1940 from parish sources. It was the family's first London address, and because the court was renumbered after 1889 the house they used stood roughly where number 9 is today.

Is Cecil Court the alley with the bow windows?

No. That is Goodwin's Court, a couple of minutes east off St Martin's Lane, a late eighteenth-century row listed at grade II* with original wooden bowed shopfronts and mid nineteenth-century gas lamps on the wall. It has no shops open to the public. Cecil Court is the wider court with the dealers in it.

Sources