A shopper carries a potted tree and wrapped flowers away from the busy Columbia Road flower market in east London
Understanding the place

A Sunday in London

What opens, what shuts, and the markets that run only today.

Sunday is the day London rearranges itself. Three of its best markets run only today, the big shops trade for six hours and choose which six, the Tube starts late and engineering work closes lines, the cathedrals stop selling sightseeing tickets and fill with music instead, and every good pub in the city is booked out for lunch by one o'clock. Planned around, it is the best day of the week. Planned like a Tuesday, it is the worst.

The legal side, including why department stores keep such odd hours, is in our guide to opening hours and Sunday trading. The meal at the centre of the day has its own guide: the Sunday roast.

This page is the shape of the day itself, from the flower market at eight in the morning to the fact that most West End theatres are dark by evening.

A London Sunday, in outline

08:00
Columbia Road flower market opens; the only quiet hour there
09:00-10:00
Brick Lane and Spitalfields fill; cafés open
10:00
Museums and galleries open as normal
11:00-12:00
Cathedral and church services; large shops start opening
12:30-15:00
Roast lunch, booked in advance
15:00
Columbia Road packs up
17:00-18:00
Large shops close; markets over
Evening
Most West End theatres dark; pubs and restaurants open
Overnight
No Night Tube; night buses run as usual

The markets that run only today

Sunday is London's market day, and the three big east London ones are within a 25-minute walk of each other.

Columbia Road in Bethnal Green is a flower market on a single narrow Victorian street, and it operates on Sundays only, from 8am until about 2pm or 3pm. Sixty independent shops line the same street and open with it. Arrive at eight and it is a working market; arrive at eleven and it is a slow-moving crowd; arrive at two and the traders are shouting prices down to clear the stock. All three are worth experiencing, but they are different experiences. See our guide to Columbia Road flower market.

Brick Lane and Spitalfields reach their peak on Sunday, when the street market, the vintage stalls and the food halls all run together. Sunday is the liveliest day for both and also the most crowded; our guide to Old Spitalfields and the Brick Lane markets explains which parts run on which days.

Greenwich Market runs all week but is fullest at the weekend, and it pairs naturally with the park, the Observatory and a boat back into town. See Greenwich Market.

Do the east London markets in the right order, not the obvious one. Columbia Road closes earliest, so start there at eight, walk south-east to Brick Lane by ten, and finish at Spitalfields, which stays open latest. Doing it the other way round means arriving at Columbia Road as the stalls are being dismantled. The whole loop is about 25 minutes of walking.

Buckets of white and purple flowers banked up on a stall under the brick arcades of Covent Garden

How the transport changes

Three differences matter. The Underground opens much later on a Sunday, and unevenly: some lines do not begin until after 7am, so an eight o'clock market often means a bus or a walk. Our guide to first and last Tube trains has the pattern line by line. Services also run less often all day. And planned engineering work is concentrated at weekends, which means a line or a section of a line may be closed, with rail replacement buses instead.

Check the status page before you set out rather than at the station, because a Sunday closure can add 40 minutes to a journey that takes 15 on a weekday. On the other hand, fares are off-peak all day at weekends, and the daily cap is the same £8.90 in Zones 1-2 whatever time you travel.

Sunday night has no Night Tube: that runs on Friday and Saturday nights only, as our guide to the Night Tube explains. Night buses run every night of the week, so getting home late on a Sunday is a bus or a cab. River services run on Sundays too, and a boat is a good way to move between Westminster, the City and Greenwich when a Tube line is closed, although river fares sit outside the daily cap. Our breakdown of what a day in London costs shows how the fares, the boat and the roast add up.

The cathedrals swap tickets for music

St Paul's Cathedral sells sightseeing tickets Monday to Saturday only. On Sunday the building is open for worship instead, and there is no charge to attend a service. That is not a loophole; it is how the cathedral works, and it means the one day you cannot pay £27 to walk round is also the one day you can sit under the dome for nothing. Our guide to St Paul's Cathedral explains the difference between the two visits.

Westminster Abbey follows the same pattern, closing to sightseeing on Sundays and religious holidays and opening for services. The music at both is professional, the choirs are among the best in the country, and nobody will ask what you believe. Arrive 20 minutes early, sit where you are shown, stand and sit with everyone else, and do not take photographs. Our guide to Westminster Abbey has the detail.

Smaller churches do the same on a smaller scale, and several central London churches put on free lunchtime and evening recitals; see classical music in London.

Booking lunch is the one thing you must do in advance

A roast in a good London pub is booked out by the Thursday before. Kitchens make a fixed number and stop when they run out, which is often by 3pm and sometimes earlier. Walking into a well-regarded pub at half past one on a Sunday and expecting a table is the most common Sunday mistake visitors make.

Book, and book the time you actually want. Note that a pub kitchen usually stops serving roasts mid-afternoon even if the bar stays open, and that a vegetarian roast is made in small numbers and has to be requested when you book. Our guide to historic pubs in London lists the buildings worth the journey; the meal itself is in the roast guide linked above.

If you would rather eat late in the morning, Sunday is also the biggest day for brunch, and the same booking problem applies for the same reason; see brunch in London.

What is open, and what quietly is not

SundayStatus
National museums and galleriesOpen as usual, free
Large shopsSix hours, between 10am and 6pm, each choosing its own
Small shops and station shopsUnrestricted; many independents close anyway
Sir John Soane's MuseumOpen (it closes Monday and Tuesday instead)
Museum of the HomeOpen (closed Mondays except bank holidays)
St Paul's and Westminster AbbeyClosed to sightseeing; open for services
BanksAlmost all closed
Most West End theatresDark, though a growing number of shows now play Sundays
Pubs and restaurantsOpen; kitchens often close mid-afternoon and reopen late or not at all

Two of London's best small museums use Sunday as a normal open day and close early in the week instead, which makes them ideal today. Sir John Soane's Museum is free, does not take bookings and often has a queue, so go at opening time.

Theatre is the real gap. Most West End houses are dark on Sunday evening, although Sunday performances have become more common and some venues now play seven days. Check the individual show rather than assuming either way; our guide to West End theatre explains how the week is structured.

Speakers' Corner and the afternoon

The north-east corner of Hyde Park, nearest Marble Arch, is where anyone may turn up and speak in public. It has done this since the nineteenth century, and Sunday is its day: from roughly late morning until mid-afternoon there will be speakers on ladders, hecklers, arguments about religion and politics, and a rotating crowd. It is free, it is peculiar, and it is one of the few genuinely unstaged things left in central London. Our guide to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens covers the rest of the park.

After that, Sunday afternoon is the best time of the week for the things that are free and outdoors: the South Bank, the bridges, the parks, the Heath. Londoners are out, which changes the texture of a place: a park on a Sunday afternoon is a different city from the same park on a Wednesday morning.

Museums stay open until their usual 5pm or 6pm and are noticeably busier than on a weekday, particularly the ones children like. If the weather turns, the free galleries are the obvious fallback and they are open normal hours.

Sunday is the cheapest good day in London. The markets cost nothing to walk through, the cathedral music is free, Speakers' Corner is free, the museums are free, and the fares are off-peak all day. A Sunday that consists of Columbia Road, a service at St Paul's, a park and a free gallery costs the price of a bus cap and a roast dinner.

The Sundays that behave differently

Otherwise the pattern holds all year. Sunday in London rewards an early start and one booking, and punishes a lie-in followed by improvisation.

Frequently asked questions

What markets are open on Sunday in London?

Columbia Road flower market runs on Sundays only, from 8am until about 2pm or 3pm. Brick Lane and Old Spitalfields are at their fullest on Sunday, and Greenwich Market is busiest at the weekend. Several smaller street markets across the city also run on Sundays; the big Saturday food markets mostly do not.

Can you visit St Paul's Cathedral on a Sunday?

Not as a sightseer. Paid sightseeing runs Monday to Saturday. On Sunday the cathedral is open for worship, and attending a service costs nothing. Westminster Abbey works the same way. If you want to walk round with a ticket and a guide, come on another day.

Does the Tube run on Sundays?

Yes, but it starts later, runs less often, and is the day most likely to be affected by planned engineering closures. Fares are off-peak all day and the daily cap is unchanged. There is no Night Tube on Sunday night; that runs on Friday and Saturday nights only.

Do I need to book Sunday lunch in London?

Yes, for anywhere good. Pubs cook a fixed number of roasts and stop when they run out, often by mid-afternoon, and popular places are full by the Thursday before. Book a specific time, and ask when you book if you need a vegetarian roast, because those are made in small numbers.

Is theatre available on a Sunday in London?

Less than on other nights. Most West End theatres are traditionally dark on Sunday, although a growing number of productions now play Sunday performances. Check the individual show's own listing. Cinemas, comedy clubs, concerts and pubs all run normally.

Sources