Pan-fried pierogi topped with caramelised onions and chives, with a small bowl of sour cream
Eating the world in London

Polish and Eastern European Food

Milk bars, delis and bakeries in Hammersmith and Ealing.

Polish food in London is cheap, filling and easy to find once you know where to look: Hammersmith and Ealing in the west, Balham and Streatham in the south, and a deli on almost every long high street in between. A plate of pierogi and a bowl of soup costs less than a sandwich in the City.

Two migrations built it. Polish servicemen and their families settled in Britain after the Second World War, many of them in west London, and they founded the clubs, churches and cultural institutions that are still there. A much larger wave arrived after Poland joined the European Union in 2004, and with it came the delis, bakeries and supermarkets that spread across the whole city.

Alongside them sit Lithuanian, Latvian, Romanian, Bulgarian, Ukrainian and Russian shops, often sharing a shelf. The food overlaps more than the borders do, and a Polish deli will usually sell you Lithuanian bread and Romanian cheese without comment.

Where to look

Hammersmith
King Street and the Polish cultural centre at 238-246 King Street, W6 0RF. Hammersmith, Zone 2
Ealing
Ealing Broadway and South Ealing, Zone 3. Delis, butchers and bakeries along the high streets
Balham and Streatham
South London's Polish shops, on the main roads rather than in a single cluster
Waterloo
A Polish restaurant and bar off Lower Marsh, useful if you are near the South Bank
Everywhere else
Small Eastern European delis on most outer high streets. Look for the word "delikatesy"
What to spend
Delis and milk-bar style canteens are among the cheapest hot food in London

Hammersmith: the institutional centre

The Polish Social and Cultural Association, known by its Polish initials POSK, occupies a large modern building at 238-246 King Street in Hammersmith. It houses a library, a theatre, a gallery and a restaurant, and it is the centre of organised Polish life in Britain rather than a tourist attraction. The concerts and film screenings are listed on its own website and are open to anyone.

Eating there is the most straightforward way to try the food properly without knowing what to order: the restaurant serves a standard Polish menu, and the clientele is overwhelmingly Polish. King Street around it has delis and bakeries, and Hammersmith station sits in Zone 2 on four Underground lines.

Our guide to Ealing and west London covers the wider area, including the stretch of Ealing where the Polish shops are thickest.

Hands folding raw dumplings on a floured wooden board

What a milk bar is, and why it matters

A bar mleczny, literally a milk bar, is a Polish canteen: a counter, a board of dishes, a tray, and a very low bill. They began as state-subsidised cafeterias in communist Poland, serving dairy and flour-based food because meat was scarce. They survive in Poland and a handful of London restaurants use the format, serving soup, pierogi and a cutlet from a counter rather than a menu.

Mamuśka! at 9 Addington Street, SE1 7RY, near Waterloo, is the best-known London version and works exactly this way. It opens from midday, until 22:00 on Sundays to Tuesdays and 23:00 from Wednesday to Saturday. Very few places near the South Bank serve a full hot meal for less than the price of a round of drinks.

Soup is not a starter here. A bowl of zurek or barszcz with a piece of bread is a light meal in its own right, and in canteen-style places it costs very little. If you want to eat cheaply and well for one evening in central London, a bowl of soup, a plate of pierogi and a glass of kompot will do it. Our page on eating cheaply in London sets it against the alternatives.

The dishes, explained

DishWhat arrives
PierogiHalf-moon dumplings, boiled or fried after boiling. Fillings: potato and curd cheese (ruskie), minced meat, cabbage and mushroom, or sweet with fruit
BarszczClear beetroot soup, deep red, sour and hot. Sometimes served with tiny dumplings floating in it
ZurekSour rye soup with sausage and a boiled egg. Cloudy, savoury and unlike anything in British cooking
BigosHunter's stew: sauerkraut and fresh cabbage cooked for a long time with several meats and dried mushrooms
GolabkiCabbage leaves rolled around rice and minced meat, baked in tomato sauce
Kotlet schabowyA breaded pork cutlet, beaten thin and fried. Served with potato and shredded beetroot or cucumber salad
Placki ziemniaczanePotato pancakes, fried crisp, eaten with sour cream or with goulash on top
SledzHerring in oil with onion, or in soured cream. A starter with vodka
PaczkiA filled doughnut, traditionally with rose petal jam, eaten in quantity on the Thursday before Lent
Sernik and makowiecBaked curd cheesecake and poppy seed roll, the two standard cakes

To drink, kompot is fruit stewed with water and served cold, and it appears on most canteen counters. Polish beer is widely available and Polish delis stock a wide range of it, as well as vodka in quantities that surprise visitors. Our page on alcohol laws in London covers what you can buy and where you can drink it.

How to use a Polish deli

The shops are the real story, and they are open on most high streets in outer London. A delikatesy is laid out the same way almost everywhere.

Staff will slice, weigh and advise. Prices are marked per 100 grams on the counter, which catches people out: a price that looks low is for a small quantity. Our guide to London's food markets covers the other end of the food-shopping scale.

Two pierogi fillings are worth knowing before you order. Ruskie are filled with potato and a mild fresh curd cheese, and are the ones to start with. Sweet pierogi filled with blueberries or plums are a dessert, served with cream and sugar, and ordering them as a main course by mistake is a common visitor error. Ask which fillings are on that day; most places make a handful.

The other Eastern European shops

Poland is the largest community but not the only one, and the shops often sit side by side.

These shops cluster where the communities live: parts of north-east London, Walthamstow, Hounslow and the outer suburbs. Our Walthamstow guide covers one of them.

Christmas, Easter and the days that matter

Two moments transform Polish delis. Before Christmas the shops fill with carp, dried mushrooms and poppy seed for Wigilia, the meatless Christmas Eve supper of twelve dishes, and queues form on 23 and 24 December. Before Easter the bakeries make mazurek, a flat decorated tart, and delis sell white sausage for the Easter breakfast.

Fat Thursday, the Thursday before Lent, is the doughnut day: Polish bakeries in London sell paczki by the hundred and often run out by lunchtime. The date moves with Easter each year. Our guide to Christmas in London covers the season more broadly, and bank holidays and opening hours explains what is shut when.

What a Polish meal costs, and how to order one

The price gap between a Polish canteen and a central London restaurant is large enough to change how you plan a day. A bowl of soup, a plate of pierogi and a soft drink is a complete meal at a fraction of what the same hunger would cost on the South Bank, and portions err on the generous side.

Ordering is straightforward once you know that most menus are organised the Polish way: soups first, then dumplings and pancakes, then the meat plates, then cakes. A common visitor mistake is to order a main course each and a shared starter, which produces far too much food. Two people are better served by one soup each and one plate of pierogi to share, with a cutlet added only if you are genuinely hungry.

Service is usually at the counter rather than at the table, and there is often no service charge at all. Where there is table service, the same discretionary rules apply as anywhere else in Britain.

Vegetarians, allergies and children

Polish food is meat-heavy but not uniformly so. Ruskie pierogi, potato pancakes, barszcz in its meatless form and several salads contain none, and the Christmas Eve tradition is entirely meat-free. Dairy is everywhere, in soured cream, curd cheese and butter, and rye bread makes this a difficult cuisine for anyone avoiding gluten. See vegan and vegetarian London and gluten-free eating in London.

For children, this is easy food: dumplings, pancakes, breaded cutlets, nothing spicy and generous portions. See London with kids.

If you like this kind of cooking, the closest equivalents in London are the Greek and Cypriot tavernas of north London and the eel and pie houses in our guide to pie and mash. All three are working-class food that became a tradition, and all three are cheaper than they ought to be.

Frequently asked questions

Where can I eat Polish food in London?

Hammersmith has the Polish cultural centre on King Street with a restaurant attached, Ealing has a concentration of delis and bakeries, and there are Polish shops on most outer high streets. Near the South Bank, Mamuska! on Addington Street serves canteen-style Polish food from midday.

What is a Polish milk bar?

A bar mleczny is a canteen where you order from a board at a counter, carry a tray to a table and pay very little. The format began as subsidised workers' cafeterias in communist Poland, serving dairy and flour-based dishes. A few London restaurants use the same model for soup, pierogi and cutlets.

What should I order if I have never eaten Polish food?

Start with ruskie pierogi, filled with potato and mild curd cheese, and a bowl of barszcz or zurek. If you want one plate rather than several, order kotlet schabowy, a breaded pork cutlet with potatoes and salad. Finish with sernik, a baked curd cheesecake.

Are Polish delis expensive?

No, and they are among the cheapest places in London to buy cured meat, bread and cheese. Prices at the counter are usually shown per 100 grams rather than per kilogram, so check before ordering a large quantity. Ready-made pierogi from the chiller cook in a few minutes at home.

Is Polish food suitable for vegetarians?

Partly. Potato and cheese pierogi, potato pancakes and several soups contain no meat, and the traditional Christmas Eve supper is meat-free by design. Stocks are often meat-based even where the dish is not, so ask. Anyone avoiding gluten will find rye bread, dumplings and breadcrumbed cutlets difficult.

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